FTLOP 18th Anniversary Tasting

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Our very first For The Love Of Port Anniversary Tasting was organized in 2009 to celebrate the 4th Anniversary of the creation of FTLOP. Since then, we have tried to schedule a tasting every year to bring close friends and wine lovers together to enjoy epic tastings and to celebrate being part of an amazing community of Port lovers.

As Glenn Elliott (my Port Partner-in-Crime) and I started to think about organizing our 18th Anniversary weekend extravaganza, we realized that this one would be missing an important part of our celebration – FTLOP Founder Roy Hersh. Roy (who we “blame” for turning us on to Port) moved from Sammamish, WA to his new permanent home in Porto, Portugal in the Summer of 2022.

For many years, the Anniversary tasting was held in Seattle in July, but with Roy’s relocation to Portugal, it just so happened that he was planning to be back in the US around the 2022 November Thanksgiving holidays. We ended up moving our celebration from July 2022 to November 2022 so that Roy could be a part of our celebration (you can read about the 2022 17th Anniversary Tasting here: FTLOP 17th Anniversary Tasting – The Port Guy).

For 2023, Glenn and I thought that Roy would again be back in the US around Thanksgiving, so we tentatively planned to do the 2023 18th Anniversary celebration again in November. However, we discovered that Roy wouldn’t be able to make it to the US in November, so Glenn and I adopted the “show must go on” mantra and set about planning our November Anniversary tasting, knowing it might not be the same without Roy in attendance.

After many weeks of emails, planning, and coordination, we settled on the weekend of November 17, 2023 for our 18th Anniversary celebration. Invites went out, we began curating the list of wines that people were bringing, and we began looking for venues to host our event.

The latter – venue – proved to be a particularly thorny problem for us post-covid. Many restaurants either had high food minimums and/or wanted to charge us corkage for the dozens of Ports we would be bringing in, and/or had limited hours and staffing that prevented us from conducting the long tasting sessions that usually accompany our weekend celebrations.

In the end, we decide to keep it simple, with Glenn and I hosting a smaller-than-normal crowd at our homes in Sammamish and Seattle, respectively.

Friday, Nov. 17, 2023

Friday night was not an official part of the FTLOP weekend, but our friend Eric was flying in from Colorado so we planned a small, informal get-together with a few of the regulars. We all met up at my house and headed up Madrona Arms, my neighborhood Irish bar to grab some food. Afterward, we walked back to my place to have a casual evening of opening a few bottles and catching up with one another.

2007 Quinta da Romaneira Vintage Port – Deep, dark purple garnet in color. The nose offers a mix of dusty fruit, with ripe blueberry, blackberry, and a touch of herbs. On the palate, it’s like indulging in a blackberry cobbler, with a smooth and well-balanced character, showcasing good tannins. Lovely, long, jammy finish. 93 points. (11/17/2023)

Vieira de Sousa Bom Dia 30 Year Old Tawny Port – Bottled in 2023. It has an inviting amber-orange color and light yellow edges. On the nose, it’s a delightful mix of caramel, vanilla, and subtle spices, reminiscent of a barrel room in Villa Nova de Gaia. This full-bodied Tawny Port offers a satisfying experience with well-integrated tannins and a touch of bitterness on the long finish. 90 points. (11/17/2023)

S. Leonardo 20 Year Old White Port – Bottled in 2023. Amber-orange in color. Its aromatic profile features grilled pineapple and guava notes. The entry is rich and intense, and the palate evolves into a remarkable flavor spectrum of dried nuts, dried herbs, caramel, and honey. It has a harmonious balance with vibrant acidity. 94 points. (11/17/2023)

 

Saturday, Nov. 18, 2023

After a pleasant, casual Friday evening, it was time to get serious. Today, we would be hosting our Vintage Port tasting, with Ports from vintage years ending in “3” (1963, 1983).

Photo courtesy of Glenn Elliott
Photo courtesy of Glenn Elliott

1963 Cockburn Vintage Port – Amber-ruby hue. Aromas of Christmas spices and dried nuts create a sense of complexity, with intriguing hints of Tawny Port characteristics adding depth. The palate is rich and intense, featuring a delightful array of baking spices and notes of lemon peel. The sharp cinnamon undertones evoke a distinct Vintage Port profile. It has a nice, long finish. 92 points. (11/18/2023)

1963 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port – Dark purple in color. Cool, crushed dark fruit on the nose dominated by notes of blueberry, dark plum, and blackberry. The palate unfolds with subtle notes of sassafras and there are some slight bitter notes on the finish. Notably, there’s a touch of dryness that adds a sophisticated edge to the overall profile. 93 points. (11/18/2023)

1963 Graham Vintage Port – N/R Corked (11/18/2023)

Note: Glenn is the only person who scored this wine. He is not affected by TCA, the chemical that makes a wine taste and smell “corked” and the fault that was present in this wine. He says that wines badly affected with TCA smell like “minerality” to him, and he readily admits that he can’t TCA minerality from regular minerality which is often found in Vintage Port and is often considered a plus. Here are his notes on this wine: “Dark ruby in color with some tawny notes.  The nose is full of dark, ripe bing cherry, blackberry, black currant, and minerality.  The palate is smooth and luscious with echoes of the nose – soft blackberry and dark cherry, but also some very ripe strawberry.  There’s a very slight bitter note as well, right before a medium-length, pleasantly warm finish. 90 points.”

1983 Quarles Harris Vintage Port – Very dark ruby hue that remains opaque except for the edges. Aromas of chocolate cocoa powder dominate the nose, accompanied by the inviting notes of black currant and dark plum. Upon the first sip, the palate is treated to a well-balanced flavor profile, where the richness of dark cherry takes center stage. The integration of nice tannins adds structure, contributing to the wine’s overall harmony. The finish is long and well-balanced. 93 points. (11/18/2023)

1983 Dow Vintage Port – Unique aroma reminiscent of bread pudding on the nose. Its dark amber color reveals notes of chocolate and dark cherry. Swirling the wine brings up some funky vegetative notes. Nice structure on the palate, with a delightful combination of dark fruit, chocolate, and well-integrated tannins. Good long finish. 92 points. (11/18/2023)

1983 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port – Classic older Taylor Vintage Port hue with a dark ruby center transitioning to pink edges. Initially subtle, I coaxed out notes of chocolate and subtle mint on the nose. The palate delivers a rich, intense, and complex flavor profile featuring chocolate, cinnamon, and baking spices, ending in a wonderful, long finish. 94 points. (11/18/2023)

1983 Graham Vintage Port – Dark opaque purple with garnet edges. Bursting with dark bramble fruits and loganberry on the nose, its rich flavor profile unveils primary notes of blueberry, blackberry, and black currant. Fine-grained tannins contribute to the structure. Very long, lush finish. 94 points. (11/18/2023)

1983 Gould Campbell Vintage Port – Dark opaque purple with garnet edges. There are enticing aromas of blackberry and blueberry compote with light herbal notes. Fresh crushed dark fruits dance on the palate, accompanied by dusty tannins and a wonderful balance that extends into a long, satisfying finish. 94 points. (11/18/2023)

1983 Ramos Pinto Vintage Port – Dark pink-purple hue with slight garnet edges. This wine offers a nose of dark, brooding fruit. While it could use a touch more acidity, it delivers a “slurpable” profile with a very nice, long finish. 95 points. (11/18/2023)

 

Scores

  63 Cockburn 63 Taylor 63 Graham 83 Quarles 83 Dow 83 Taylor 83 Graham 83 Gould 83 Ramos
Sandy 94 89 93 91 92 95 93 94
Dave 92 93 91 89 91 94 96 94
Lisa 92 91 92 93 93 94 93 95
Vic 91 90 91 92 93 94 92 93
Glenn 92 93 90 94 92 93 96 95 94
Lindsay 93 92 93 93 94 94 95 94
Amy 91 89 92 93 91 94 96 93
Eric M 93 91 93 92 94 92 92 94
Stewart 92 93 93 92 94 94 94 95
Average 92.22 91.22   92.44 91.89 92.78 94.11 94.00 94.00

 

After we finished the formal tasting, I served dinner for our guests, and we opened some additional wines to enjoy. I didn’t write tasting notes for the following wines – sometimes you just have to put down the pen and enjoy the moment savoring great wines with amazing friends.

No Tasting Notes
2015 Ridge Buchignani Ranch Carignane
2017 Ridge Geyserville
2019 Kopke Reserva Douro Red
2005 Clot de l’Oum Côtes du Roussillon Villages Caramany Saint Bart Vieilles Vignes
1985 Vista Alegra Colheita Port
S. Leonard 30 Year Old White Port
2008 DR Colheita Port
DR 40 Year Old Tawny Port

 

Sunday, Nov. 19, 2023

Our second formal day of tasting would be focused on wood-aged Ports. Glenn graciously offered to host day 2, so we gathered at his place in Sammamish, Washington to embark on a remarkable tasting of Tawny Ports.

While curating the wines for the tasting, it quickly became apparent that there was going to be at least a small theme of Kopke Colheitas, and the ones initially offered were some of the best that Kopke has ever produced.  Glenn encouraged others to add to the theme, with emphasis placed on the “big 4” that we generally consider some of Kopke’s top Ports.

 

Photo courtesy of Glenn Elliott

1966 Kopke Colheita Port – Bottled in 2019. Amber-orange color with a yellow rim. It has aromas of caramel, orange spices, and a hint of cinnamon. With noticeable acidity from the entry to the mid-palate, it unfolds a sweet flavor profile, featuring dried nuts and dried orange peel. The very long finish introduces a touch of cinnamon and additional acidity. 93 points. (11/19/2023)

1963 Kopke Colheita Port – Bottled in 2012. This Port boasts a dark amber-brown hue. Vanilla on the nose combines with dried nuts and dusty old wood. The smooth entry with good acidity transitions into a mid-palate with a hint of bitterness and a touch of sourness on the low end. 94 points. (11/19/2023)

1957 Kopke Colheita Port – Bottled in 2019. Medium amber-brown color with a slight spirit on the nose, complemented by dried fruit. It has a very sweet entry, and the acidity here almost seems like carbonation. It has a long finish with nice acidity. 91 points. (11/19/2023)

1952 Kopke Colheita Port – Bottled in 2011. Slightly cloudy tawny brown color. Notes of chocolate, mahogany, molasses, and subtle herbal nuances create a smooth flavor profile with well-balanced tannins. The long finish is highlighted by a nice blend of orange sweetness and acidity. 92 points. (11/19/2023)

1937 Kopke Colheita Port – Bottled in 2017. Clear, intense amber-brown center with light yellow and a hint of green on the edge. With light varnish notes on the nose, it has a rich, intense mouthfeel with subtle chocolate, dried fruits, and herbal notes on the long finish. 94 points. (11/19/2023)

1952 Burmester Colheita Port – Bottled in 2019. Amber-orange core with a noticeable yellow edge. The nose offers warm spices, old wood, orange spices, vanilla, and caramel. It presents a wonderful sweet flavor profile with caramel, orange spice, dried fruit, nuts, and great acidity. 91 points. (11/19/2023)

Confraria do Vinho do Porto 40 Year Old Tawny Port – This Tawny Port was created as a limited release to celebrate the 40th Anniversary of the Confraria do Vinho do Porto. This wine was blended from old stocks personally selected by David Guimaraens (winemaker at the Fladgate Partnership). It is amber in color with some olive hues. On the nose it delivers Christmas spices, and complex red fruit. On the palate, it has intense red fruit, spice, balanced tannins, and a refreshing finish. 93 points. (11/19/2023)

S. Leonardo “60 Year Old” Very Old Tawny Port – Bottled in 2017. Very dark amber hue, almost black. Amazing aromas of burnt sugar, espresso bean, old mahogany, and subtle spices. Intense molasses, brown sugar, and rich intensity on the palate. It has a rich profile that features waves and waves of complex, rich flavors. Crazy long, rich finish. Wow. 96 points. (11/19/2023)

DR Very Old White Port – Bottled in 2021. Orange-yellow color. It has rich, lush aromas of tropical fruit, vanilla, cantaloupe, and pineapple. On the palate, it is incredibly complex, with waves of rich tropical fruits with balanced sweetness and acidity. The finish just keeps going and going. Fantastic structure and richness. 97 points. (11/19/2023)

Photo courtesy of Glenn Elliott

Scores

  K 66 K 63 K 57 K 52 K 37 B 52 Con 40 SL 60 DR VO W
Lisa 95 94 94 96 96 96 94 98 98
Vic 93 94 92 95 95 95 94 97 97
Glenn 94 95 94 96 96 97 94 98 98
Lindsay 93 94 91 95 96 95 95 98 99
Amy 96 94 95 96 95 95 95 97 97
Eric M 94 95 94 96 96 94 93 96 95
Stewart 93 95 91 94 94 94 94 96 97
Average 94.00 94.43 93.00 95.43 95.43 95.14 94.14 97.14 97.29

 

Photo courtesy of Glenn Elliott

After the success of the DR Very Old White during the formal tasting, we opened a couple of other White Ports to enjoy along with a Madeira and an interesting Tawny Port:

2008 DR White Port – Bottled in 2021. Peach-white in color. There are wonderful floral and tropical notes on the nose, with pineapple and white peach. The acidity is perfectly balanced here with the sweetness, giving this wine a thirst-quenching quality that is refreshing and approachable. The very long finish features beautiful honey and light caramel notes. 93 points. (11/19/2023)

Andresen 40 Year Old Tawny Port – Bottled in 2021, Amber-yellow in color. There are tropical notes and a touch of VA on the nose. The intense flavor profile includes bright acidity and peach, white stone fruits, and tropical notes on the palate. Very long finish. 94 points. (11/19/2023)

2003 Kopke White Colheita Port – Bottled in 2021. Clear, brilliant amber-orange color. Tropical notes on the nose with a hint of maple syrup and dried herbs. The palate is extremely balanced, with spices, white peaches, and tropical notes. There is good acidity from the start to the very end of the long finish. 92 points. (11/19/2023)

1853 Lomelino Malmsey Solera Madeira – Light amber-brown in color. This wine has a delightful nose with a hint of dill and some of oxidation. Balanced acidity and sweetness accompany dried nuts, salinity, and a nice, long finish. 93 points. (11/19/2023)

1964 Casa do Douro Colhetia Port – Amber-brown in color. Marzipan and dried nuts on the nose. With a smooth flavor profile featuring bread pudding and cinnamon spice, it concludes with nice acidity on the long finish. 90 points. (11/19/2023)

Wines of the Weekend

This crowd of Port lovers are huge fans of old, aged Tawny Ports, so it is unsurprising that those took the top spots for the weekend. In fairness to the also-lovely Ruby Ports, I have separated the Tawnies from the other Ports and summarized the top five Ports from each category, followed by the full, ranked list.

Vintage Ports

Wine Average
1. 1983 Graham Vintage Port 94.11
2. 1983 Gould Campbell Vintage Port 94
3. 1983 Ramos Pinto Vintage Port 94
4. 1983 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 92.78
5. 1983 Quarles Harris Vintage Port 92.44

 

Tawny & White Ports

Wine Average
1. DR Very Old White Port 97.29
2. S. Leonardo “60 Year Old” Very Old Tawny Port 97.14
3. 1952 Kopke Colheita Port 95.43
4. 1937 Kopke Colheita Port 95.43
5. 1952 Burmerster Colheita Port 95.14

 

Ranked List of All Rated Ports

Wine Average
1. DR Very Old White Port 97.29
2. S. Leonardo “60 Year Old” Very Old Tawny Port 97.14
3. 1952 Kopke Colheita Port 95.43
4. 1937 Kopke Colheita Port 95.43
5. 1952 Burmerster Colheita Port 95.14
6. 1963 Kopke Colheita Port 94.43
7. Confraria do Vinho do Porto 40 Year Old Tawny Port 94.14
8. 1983 Graham Vintage Port 94.11
9. 1966 Kopke Colheita Port 94
10. 1983 Gould Campbell Vintage Port 94
11. 1983 Ramos Pinto Vintage Port 94
12. 1957 Kopke Colheita Port 93
13. 1983 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 92.78
14. 1983 Quarles Harris Vintage Port 92.44
15. 1963 Cockburn Vintage Port 92.22
16. 1983 Dow Vintage Port 91.89
17. 1963 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 91.22
18. 1963 Graham Vintage Port N/R

 

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