Sometimes the best tastings come from a simple idea and a curious palate. Glenn had picked up a few bottles through one of the For The Love of Port (FTLOP) buying opportunities, and he wanted to get together to see how they were showing. What followed was a small, focused lineup featuring a rare Poças Bonificador Tawny and a vertical of José Maria da Fonseca’s Alambre Moscatel de Setúbal—10, 20, and 30 Year bottlings that offered a fascinating look at how this fortified Muscat evolves over time.
From the playful spice and bright acidity of the Bonificador to the rich citrus, toffee, and petrol-laced complexity of the Moscatels, each bottle brought something different to the table. These aren’t Ports, but they speak the same language—sweetness balanced by structure, concentration tempered by elegance, and finish that tells a story. What made this tasting special wasn’t just the wines themselves, but the opportunity to sit down, open a few bottles with friends, and experience how time shapes a wine’s soul.
Poças Bonificador Tawny Port – Bottle #717 of 733. Amber-orange in color, this wine is around 25 years of age. The nose offers orange spice, roasted nuts, and a curious note of artificial banana candy that adds a playful twist. Entry is smooth and rich, with cinnamon and red fruits on the palate, leading into a spicy finish marked by red hots and dried fruit. The most intriguing aspect is the finish—it contracts briefly after swallowing, then surges back with a wave of rich complexity and well-integrated acidity. 93 points. 11/1/2024
José Maria da Fonseca Alambre 10 Year Old Moscatel de Setúbal – Light amber-orange in color, resembling a pale Tawny. The nose opens with bright lime peel and orange marmalade, layered over apricot, honey, and a subtle petrol note reminiscent of mature Riesling. On the palate, the wine is light and refreshing on entry, with balanced sweetness and a soft, rounded texture. Citrus and stone fruit dominate the mid-palate, with hints of toasted nuts, caramel, and a faint herbal note—almost like Ricola. The structure is lifted by clean acidity, but there’s a slight rough edge and touch of petrol that lingers. It drinks like a richer, more structured Spätlese, and White Port fans may find this a fascinating crossover. Less oxidative than a classic Tawny, but still complex and engaging. 92 points. 11/1/2024
José Maria da Fonseca Alambre 20 Year Old Moscatel de Setúbal – Yellow-orange in color, showing clear signs of extended aging. The nose is expressive, with rich aromas of candied citrus peel, lemon drops, and a touch of petrol layered over dried apricot and warm spice. On the palate, it opens with a burst of sweet, concentrated lemon candy—reminiscent of Lemonheads—followed by deeper notes of orange marmalade, fig, and toasted almond. Richer and more layered than the 10 Year, with a fuller body and greater intensity. The finish is long and persistent, echoing citrus oils and honeyed complexity. Estimated age feels closer to 25–30 years. 94 points. 11/1/2024
José Maria da Fonseca Alambre 30 Year Old Moscatel de Setúbal – Yellow-brown in color, reminiscent of an aged White Port. The nose is striking, with layered aromas of salted chocolate, dried fig, caramelized citrus peel, and warm baking spice. Entry is rich and deeply complex, showing a dense core of dried fruit, cocoa, and toffee balanced by a savory edge. The wine unfolds slowly across the palate, with waves of flavor and a velvety texture. Beautiful integration and elegance throughout. Estimated age feels closer to 40 years. 95 points. 11/1/2024
Tastings like this are a great reminder of how fun it can be to open a few bottles, compare notes, and experience some wines from other regions of Portugal. Each wine brought something different to the table—from the citrusy lift of the Alambre 10 Year to the richness and depth of the 30 Year, and the quirky, spicy finish on the Poças Bonificador Tawny. None of these are Port, but they share some of the same appeal: complexity, sweetness, and a long, satisfying finish. Whether you’re a die-hard Port lover or just curious about the broader world of fortified styles, these bottles proved that Portugal still has plenty of secrets worth uncovering.
